Hi Point fun part 1

Alright ya'll, tech time.
We're going to do a little dis-assembly guide today.
But first... I suck at punctuality. Really. No, I'm not kidding. I started this blog to have an outlet for my creativity. Since I started this, a lot has changed. Now, I am renewing my commitment to myself. This is going to be a bit long, but should cover all aspects. Questions? I'd try your Google-Fu first, since who knows if I'll be able to get back on here any time soon. If you are into HiPoint pistols, try the HiPoint forums at
http://www.hipointfirearmsforums.com/forum/
A lot of info came from there(and a lot of the pics too)
I will be trying to put together a HiPoint reliability article that will be posted here soon.... If ya'all want, I can go over some Ruger GP double action stuff, or Sig anyone? And of course I'll be doing some 1911 stuff. On top of that, there will be other interesting stuff too.
Now then, ya'll are along for the ride, so buckle up my little droogs....

WARNING: Firearms are dangerous!(duh) Altering a firearm without knowing what you are doing is dangerous and irresponsible. By altering a firearm you are opening yourself up to possible state and/or federal charges, and possible litigation from anyone/anything hurt, damaged, injured, destroyed, or killed.
YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED

This is a disassembly guide for those wanting to completely strip their Hi Point pistol. The pics show a C9, but these proceedures should get you through any other model. I have culled this information and these pix from throughout the internet and from my and my friends experience. If you don't know what you are doing, then  DON'T DO IT.
WARNING:Before starting work on any firearm, make sure it is unloaded. This is intended as a guide only, for entertainment purposes. Or in case of Zombie Attack. I accept no responsibility for anything or anyone damaged by your actions. And as with anything else you might read on the internet, YMMV.

One last time, if you don't know what you are doing, then  DON'T DO IT. There are a lot of experienced people with a lot of insurance that can help you. It might sound like a lot of money to pay someone, but they know what they are doing, have the proper tools, and have families to support.

Before actually taking the pistol apart, make sure you’re in an area with good lighting and the proper tools.

Tools Required:
Punches-Various sizes
        Small Hammer w/soft and hard faces
        #2 Phillips Screwdriver
        Bench Puck

Suggested items:
        Small parts bins
        Digital camera
I know a several people who use muffin tins to keep small parts organized. Also, in place of a bench puck, a plastic tray from a box of ammo can be used, or make one yourself from a piece of carpet glued to a small section of a 2x4.

A digital camera may be handy to have. If you have any concerns, snap a few pictures. An extra few seconds with a camera may save your bacon! And who doesn't love bacon? I mean really....

Best Practices: Proper tools give the best results! Also Remember: A clean work area is easier to work in, and you are much less likely to lose or damage parts or your firearm!

Also Remember: NEVER ALLOW ANY AMMUNITION INTO YOUR WORK AREA! 

Now, lets get to work. The first steps show how to field strip the pistol. With the magazine out and the gun unloaded (You checked again, right?), lock back the slide. On either side, at the rear of the receiver, a pin can be seen thru a notch in the slide (figure 1). This pin will need to be driven out in order to remove the slide from the receiver. On some Hi Point pistols, the slide stop may not hold the slide back far enough to allow for the removal of this pin. If this is the case, put something between the safety and the slide to make the slide go back just far enough. I did not need to, but I tried it later on using a piece of cardstock.

Figure 1

After the pin has been driven out of the receiver the slide can be lifted up (fig 2) then let forward to slide off of the barrel (fig 3). WATCH OUT FOR FLYING SPRINGS! Them little parts are just too damn easy to loose!

Figure 2

Figure 3

Best Practices: Many pins used in firearms must be driven 

LEFT to RIGHT

While this one can be driven either way, getting into the LtoR habit will save you some headaches.

Also Remember: Small parts bins are your friend! In a pinch grab a baggie or even one of the wife's tupperware containers (Just don't get caught!)

You have completed the field strip (fig 4).

Figure 4

To continue the detail strip, remove the parts in the striker channel in the underside of the slide (fig 5). They will slide out of the rear of the striker channel with ease. There are two versions of striker designs. This particular pistol is of the newer design. 

Figure 5

Another view of the inside of the slide (fig 6)

Figure 6

Figure 7

Fig 7 shows new (Left) vs old (Right)

To remove the extractor from the slide, the extractor pin needs to be driven out, from the top down (Top, fig 8). Sometimes, the extractor spring will get stuck in the slide. Poking it with a punch or lifting with a dental pick should get it pop right out (Bottom, fig 8). Remember, drive this pin from the top (Outside of slide) heading downward (toward the inside). The pin is bent a little so it will stay in place (lower left of pic, fig 9). 

Figure 8

Figure 9

WARNING! If you hammer upward on the pin, you're likely to deform the hole in the slide. 

Best Practices: Always note the orientation of pins during removal. Often pins like this one will have a larger head on the side that you drive the pin out of. Obviously, trying to drive the larger end of a pin in first will at the very least ruin the pin, if not your firearm! Use care! 

Tip: Because these pins (also trigger pin below) are bent instead of tapered (Sig) or having a peened end (1911), the best way to reinstall the pin is to insert the long leg first. That should prevent hogging out the hole. Hey... Do you smell bacon....

Use the #2 phillips head to remove the grip screw (fig 10). You can now reomve the right side grip.

Figure 10

With the right grip removed, the magazine release spring can be lifted out (fig 11). Toward the rear of the receiver is the sear cam, (top center of pic, shown removed, fig 12) which you will also lift out now.

Figure 11

Figure 12

The sear can now be removed (fig 13). With the sear cam removed (above), you can lift the sear and sear spring up and out of the receiver.

Figure 13

Now it is time to remove the drop safety. Rotate up the retaining pin (underneath the right arm of the sear, fig 14. Also shown with sear removed, looking down into receiver. Long bar, left side of pic, fig 15) and wiggle it out (fig 16).

Figure 14

Figure 15

Figure 16

Best Practices: Always make note of the orientation of parts that may be easily reversed which may cause malfunction, like the sear. That kind of mistake may cause malfunction, damage to your firearm or even accidental discharge! Use caution! 


Tip: If you have even the slightest concern, take pictures with a digital camera for quick reference. See? That digital camera has uses other than sending pics of your junk to the girlfriend...

Damn....

The drop safety will fall out of the bottom of the receiver once the pin has been removed (fig 17).

Figure 17

Now would be a good time to remove the sear cup (fig 15, reprised). It just lifts out.

Figure 15, Reprised

The next step is to remove the sear block and sear block spring (shown raised, fig 18). They just pull out towards the front of the pistol.

Figure 18

Looking down into the receiver (fig 15, re-reprised)

15.... Oh Lord, not again...

Next, move onto the other side of the pistol. Remove the grip screw/grip from this side too (fig 19).

Figure 19

The grip retains the safety. Once the grip has been removed, the safety will lift right off (fig 20).

Figure 20

Also on this side of the pistol is the magazine release and last round hold open (slide stop). The magazine release has a plastic button on it. The button just pulls off of the magazine release (fig 21).

Figure 21

Now, remove the spring for the last round hold open (slide stop), connected to the magazine release (seen at 6 o'clock from thumb, fig 22) . With the slide stop spring removed, the magazine release will come out of the frame. You may now remove the slide stop (Directly above trigger. Should be pretty easy to find, you just removed the spring connected to the bottom of it....).

Figure 22

The slide stop actuates when the last round in the magazine has been fired, or, when the pistol has an empty magazine in it and the slide is pulled back. With the slide pulled back, the magazine’s follower pushes upon the bottom of the slide stop, locking the slide in the rearward position. 

Removing the trigger is the nest step. In this picture I'm pointing at the side of the pin that you don't want to drive this pin out  from (fig 23). This is another one of those bent pins that needs to be removed Left to Right. Drive pin from the other side of the pistol (sick of the left to right thing yet?). Removing the pin allows the trigger to come out of the frame. 

Figure 23

Best Practices: Be in the habit of always driving pins left to right!

Tip: Just like the extractor (Above), when reinstalling this pin, insert the long leg of the pin first. That will save wear and tear on the pin hole. Who likes a loose hole?

The trigger must be rotated to be lifted out of the opening in the receiver (fig 24). 

Figure 24

With the slide stop spring removed, remove the two pins holding the barrel in place (location indicated by punch, both top and bottom, fig 25).

Figure 25

The larger barrel pin is splined and needs a little more force to be driven out (indicated by punch, bottom, fig 25). Only a little. Don't go all gorilla on it or anything... Note the larger pin has a head on it that retains the slide stop (fig 26, inset) that might make the Left to Right thing a little tough, so drive these pins out from the Right (fig 26)

Figure 26

With both pins removed, the barrel can be lifted out of the receiver (fig 26, above).

Now the receiver is fully disassembled. This is not necessary for a regular cleaning, but it is a good practice to do a detail strip and cleaning from time to time. A lot of people will do a detail strip and cleaning every 1k rounds or so. 

With the pistol completely disassembled, you may now perform a grip shrink, refinish the receiver and/or slide or perform any other customization. This would be a great time to do a trigger job and polish all internal friction points, or throat and polish the chamber. Since the extractor is out of the slide, you can tune the extractor angles. Polishing the breech face is another reliability step you can take. This is also a great time to change out any springs. 

Some guys will clip a few coils off of a spring to lighten it. That's a bad habit to get into. Springs are cheap. If you clip a spring, there's no going back if it causes reliability problems. At least without ordering a replacement. Which means down time. What are ya going to do if the zombies attack? Better to do a proper trigger job, or get a recoil spring set to properly tune the recoil action.

While you have it apart, make sure to clean all the nooks and crannies. Or is it crooks and grannies... Never could keep those straight. Seriously though, how can you do a proper inspection if your gun is dirty?

To reassemble, just reverse the process. 

A few reassembly notes...

Realigning the slide retainging pin with the retainging pin hole in the receiver can be a little tricky (fig 27)

Figure 27

Fig 28 shows the recoil spring and guide rod in correct alignment.

Figure 28

One last view (fig 3, reprised)

Figure 3, yet again

And don't forget proper lubrication....

Best Practices:  A clean pistol lasts longer, especially when coupled with high quality lubricant.

Also Remember: The correct tools make any job easier, and you are much less likely to damage your firearm.

Also Remember: A clean work area is just plain easier to work in, and less likely to loose parts or otherwise damage your firearm.

And Last But Not Least: Any time you do any disassembly, ALWAYS inspect your firearm and it's parts for excessive wear or damage. 

     

Play safe!

Ziva! Come Back! Pleeeeeze!