I know it's been a while since I put forth anything, but this is just too important

Most of you may not know that Mike and Ike, of Mike and Ike brand candy, have decided to split up. Not very amicably it seems.

Apparently, during the split, one of those cocksuckers has decided that the green M&I's are not communal property. Come on guys! I don't know anyone that doesn't love the lime M&I's! I have to say that I feel lucky if I get one in a box anymore. 

I know you guys aren't happy, we've all been there. But come on! Are you going to make us suffer just because you want to punish each other?

Damn it guys, you have a lot of history together. There is no denying that. Yes, over that amount of time a lot of resentments can develop, but all that history... Let's be real. Admit it-There were good times too. Don't let go of those. At the end of the day that's all we have. I don't know about you, but I'd rather think about pleasant things than dwell on the negatives.

See? Aren't those beautiful? When I was a kid, I didn't want the orange or lemon flavors, but now I see the big picture. Green, Red, Pink, Yellow, Orange. Take away any one and the whole  becomes less than the sum. The perfect balance... But all pieces are imperative to the perfect simplicity, or simple perfection, or something. I dunno. Those are questions of the ages that the great philosophers will debate endlessly, much as the question of the Giant Flying Spaghetti Monster. 

You just cannot be the same without each other:

Please guys, talk it out. Your problems can be solved. You just have to try.

For the sake of all of us, work it out. 

 

Let's start with my question to you...

Ok, anyone out there have any of the Kuhnhausen books? I mean besides the 1911 books. Particularly looking for S&W revolvers, Ruger Double Action, and Mauser.
 Also, anyone know of a resource like the Kuhnhausen books for Sig Sauer P22x series? I have a P220 in .45ACP (always looking for one in .38 super). I've done a few things to her, which I may cover if any one seems interested. Very nice platform. I am looking at the XDs, and also at the EAA(Tanfolgio) Witness. I like the .38 Super cartridge. Fun to shoot. Accurate, light recoil, shoots flat, and with some of the hotter loads, you are basically shooting a .357 Magnum. Nothing to sneeze at. Too bad there are so few handguns chambered in the .38 Super.
 Something I have been thinking about is getting my hands on a double stack 1911, like the Rock Island 1911A2. I want to pull the top off, mill the top of the frame for a ramped barrel, and drop a Commander sized top end, with a Storm Lake ramped bull barrel chambered in .38 Super. Of course, if I am going to go to all that trouble, I'll have to install Wilson match light weight trigger, and Bulletproof hammer, sear, and disconnector. All Wolff springs, Smith and Alexander grip safety and smooth main spring housing and Ed Brown safety, slide stop and mag release. After all that, I would like to do a snakeskin treatment to the front strap and main spring housing. all that's left to do is a refinish. Desert Tan... Probably do all the small parts in black. Cap that all off with some custom Snakewood grips. Funny thing.... I've done 1911 trigger jobs, fit accessory parts, and even done some reshaping of a 1911 receiver. The last set of grips I did.... Gods what a pain! Hardest 1911mod I've done!
A pistol grip I need to do is for my Ruger GP100. The stock rubber and wood grip.... UghLeeeeeeee. If anyone has done a custom grip for your Ruger revolver, drop a note. I'd love any comments.
Ok, I'm out. With the seeming lack of interest in the HiPoint article I did, I'll probably not do another one. Unless anyone asks, that is.

Hi Point fun part 1

Alright ya'll, tech time.
We're going to do a little dis-assembly guide today.
But first... I suck at punctuality. Really. No, I'm not kidding. I started this blog to have an outlet for my creativity. Since I started this, a lot has changed. Now, I am renewing my commitment to myself. This is going to be a bit long, but should cover all aspects. Questions? I'd try your Google-Fu first, since who knows if I'll be able to get back on here any time soon. If you are into HiPoint pistols, try the HiPoint forums at
http://www.hipointfirearmsforums.com/forum/
A lot of info came from there(and a lot of the pics too)
I will be trying to put together a HiPoint reliability article that will be posted here soon.... If ya'all want, I can go over some Ruger GP double action stuff, or Sig anyone? And of course I'll be doing some 1911 stuff. On top of that, there will be other interesting stuff too.
Now then, ya'll are along for the ride, so buckle up my little droogs....

WARNING: Firearms are dangerous!(duh) Altering a firearm without knowing what you are doing is dangerous and irresponsible. By altering a firearm you are opening yourself up to possible state and/or federal charges, and possible litigation from anyone/anything hurt, damaged, injured, destroyed, or killed.
YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED

This is a disassembly guide for those wanting to completely strip their Hi Point pistol. The pics show a C9, but these proceedures should get you through any other model. I have culled this information and these pix from throughout the internet and from my and my friends experience. If you don't know what you are doing, then  DON'T DO IT.
WARNING:Before starting work on any firearm, make sure it is unloaded. This is intended as a guide only, for entertainment purposes. Or in case of Zombie Attack. I accept no responsibility for anything or anyone damaged by your actions. And as with anything else you might read on the internet, YMMV.

One last time, if you don't know what you are doing, then  DON'T DO IT. There are a lot of experienced people with a lot of insurance that can help you. It might sound like a lot of money to pay someone, but they know what they are doing, have the proper tools, and have families to support.

Before actually taking the pistol apart, make sure you’re in an area with good lighting and the proper tools.

Tools Required:
Punches-Various sizes
        Small Hammer w/soft and hard faces
        #2 Phillips Screwdriver
        Bench Puck

Suggested items:
        Small parts bins
        Digital camera
I know a several people who use muffin tins to keep small parts organized. Also, in place of a bench puck, a plastic tray from a box of ammo can be used, or make one yourself from a piece of carpet glued to a small section of a 2x4.

A digital camera may be handy to have. If you have any concerns, snap a few pictures. An extra few seconds with a camera may save your bacon! And who doesn't love bacon? I mean really....

Best Practices: Proper tools give the best results! Also Remember: A clean work area is easier to work in, and you are much less likely to lose or damage parts or your firearm!

Also Remember: NEVER ALLOW ANY AMMUNITION INTO YOUR WORK AREA! 

Now, lets get to work. The first steps show how to field strip the pistol. With the magazine out and the gun unloaded (You checked again, right?), lock back the slide. On either side, at the rear of the receiver, a pin can be seen thru a notch in the slide (figure 1). This pin will need to be driven out in order to remove the slide from the receiver. On some Hi Point pistols, the slide stop may not hold the slide back far enough to allow for the removal of this pin. If this is the case, put something between the safety and the slide to make the slide go back just far enough. I did not need to, but I tried it later on using a piece of cardstock.

Figure 1

After the pin has been driven out of the receiver the slide can be lifted up (fig 2) then let forward to slide off of the barrel (fig 3). WATCH OUT FOR FLYING SPRINGS! Them little parts are just too damn easy to loose!

Figure 2

Figure 3

Best Practices: Many pins used in firearms must be driven 

LEFT to RIGHT

While this one can be driven either way, getting into the LtoR habit will save you some headaches.

Also Remember: Small parts bins are your friend! In a pinch grab a baggie or even one of the wife's tupperware containers (Just don't get caught!)

You have completed the field strip (fig 4).

Figure 4

To continue the detail strip, remove the parts in the striker channel in the underside of the slide (fig 5). They will slide out of the rear of the striker channel with ease. There are two versions of striker designs. This particular pistol is of the newer design. 

Figure 5

Another view of the inside of the slide (fig 6)

Figure 6

Figure 7

Fig 7 shows new (Left) vs old (Right)

To remove the extractor from the slide, the extractor pin needs to be driven out, from the top down (Top, fig 8). Sometimes, the extractor spring will get stuck in the slide. Poking it with a punch or lifting with a dental pick should get it pop right out (Bottom, fig 8). Remember, drive this pin from the top (Outside of slide) heading downward (toward the inside). The pin is bent a little so it will stay in place (lower left of pic, fig 9). 

Figure 8

Figure 9

WARNING! If you hammer upward on the pin, you're likely to deform the hole in the slide. 

Best Practices: Always note the orientation of pins during removal. Often pins like this one will have a larger head on the side that you drive the pin out of. Obviously, trying to drive the larger end of a pin in first will at the very least ruin the pin, if not your firearm! Use care! 

Tip: Because these pins (also trigger pin below) are bent instead of tapered (Sig) or having a peened end (1911), the best way to reinstall the pin is to insert the long leg first. That should prevent hogging out the hole. Hey... Do you smell bacon....

Use the #2 phillips head to remove the grip screw (fig 10). You can now reomve the right side grip.

Figure 10

With the right grip removed, the magazine release spring can be lifted out (fig 11). Toward the rear of the receiver is the sear cam, (top center of pic, shown removed, fig 12) which you will also lift out now.

Figure 11

Figure 12

The sear can now be removed (fig 13). With the sear cam removed (above), you can lift the sear and sear spring up and out of the receiver.

Figure 13

Now it is time to remove the drop safety. Rotate up the retaining pin (underneath the right arm of the sear, fig 14. Also shown with sear removed, looking down into receiver. Long bar, left side of pic, fig 15) and wiggle it out (fig 16).

Figure 14

Figure 15

Figure 16

Best Practices: Always make note of the orientation of parts that may be easily reversed which may cause malfunction, like the sear. That kind of mistake may cause malfunction, damage to your firearm or even accidental discharge! Use caution! 


Tip: If you have even the slightest concern, take pictures with a digital camera for quick reference. See? That digital camera has uses other than sending pics of your junk to the girlfriend...

Damn....

The drop safety will fall out of the bottom of the receiver once the pin has been removed (fig 17).

Figure 17

Now would be a good time to remove the sear cup (fig 15, reprised). It just lifts out.

Figure 15, Reprised

The next step is to remove the sear block and sear block spring (shown raised, fig 18). They just pull out towards the front of the pistol.

Figure 18

Looking down into the receiver (fig 15, re-reprised)

15.... Oh Lord, not again...

Next, move onto the other side of the pistol. Remove the grip screw/grip from this side too (fig 19).

Figure 19

The grip retains the safety. Once the grip has been removed, the safety will lift right off (fig 20).

Figure 20

Also on this side of the pistol is the magazine release and last round hold open (slide stop). The magazine release has a plastic button on it. The button just pulls off of the magazine release (fig 21).

Figure 21

Now, remove the spring for the last round hold open (slide stop), connected to the magazine release (seen at 6 o'clock from thumb, fig 22) . With the slide stop spring removed, the magazine release will come out of the frame. You may now remove the slide stop (Directly above trigger. Should be pretty easy to find, you just removed the spring connected to the bottom of it....).

Figure 22

The slide stop actuates when the last round in the magazine has been fired, or, when the pistol has an empty magazine in it and the slide is pulled back. With the slide pulled back, the magazine’s follower pushes upon the bottom of the slide stop, locking the slide in the rearward position. 

Removing the trigger is the nest step. In this picture I'm pointing at the side of the pin that you don't want to drive this pin out  from (fig 23). This is another one of those bent pins that needs to be removed Left to Right. Drive pin from the other side of the pistol (sick of the left to right thing yet?). Removing the pin allows the trigger to come out of the frame. 

Figure 23

Best Practices: Be in the habit of always driving pins left to right!

Tip: Just like the extractor (Above), when reinstalling this pin, insert the long leg of the pin first. That will save wear and tear on the pin hole. Who likes a loose hole?

The trigger must be rotated to be lifted out of the opening in the receiver (fig 24). 

Figure 24

With the slide stop spring removed, remove the two pins holding the barrel in place (location indicated by punch, both top and bottom, fig 25).

Figure 25

The larger barrel pin is splined and needs a little more force to be driven out (indicated by punch, bottom, fig 25). Only a little. Don't go all gorilla on it or anything... Note the larger pin has a head on it that retains the slide stop (fig 26, inset) that might make the Left to Right thing a little tough, so drive these pins out from the Right (fig 26)

Figure 26

With both pins removed, the barrel can be lifted out of the receiver (fig 26, above).

Now the receiver is fully disassembled. This is not necessary for a regular cleaning, but it is a good practice to do a detail strip and cleaning from time to time. A lot of people will do a detail strip and cleaning every 1k rounds or so. 

With the pistol completely disassembled, you may now perform a grip shrink, refinish the receiver and/or slide or perform any other customization. This would be a great time to do a trigger job and polish all internal friction points, or throat and polish the chamber. Since the extractor is out of the slide, you can tune the extractor angles. Polishing the breech face is another reliability step you can take. This is also a great time to change out any springs. 

Some guys will clip a few coils off of a spring to lighten it. That's a bad habit to get into. Springs are cheap. If you clip a spring, there's no going back if it causes reliability problems. At least without ordering a replacement. Which means down time. What are ya going to do if the zombies attack? Better to do a proper trigger job, or get a recoil spring set to properly tune the recoil action.

While you have it apart, make sure to clean all the nooks and crannies. Or is it crooks and grannies... Never could keep those straight. Seriously though, how can you do a proper inspection if your gun is dirty?

To reassemble, just reverse the process. 

A few reassembly notes...

Realigning the slide retainging pin with the retainging pin hole in the receiver can be a little tricky (fig 27)

Figure 27

Fig 28 shows the recoil spring and guide rod in correct alignment.

Figure 28

One last view (fig 3, reprised)

Figure 3, yet again

And don't forget proper lubrication....

Best Practices:  A clean pistol lasts longer, especially when coupled with high quality lubricant.

Also Remember: The correct tools make any job easier, and you are much less likely to damage your firearm.

Also Remember: A clean work area is just plain easier to work in, and less likely to loose parts or otherwise damage your firearm.

And Last But Not Least: Any time you do any disassembly, ALWAYS inspect your firearm and it's parts for excessive wear or damage. 

     

Play safe!

Ziva! Come Back! Pleeeeeze!

Ti-i-i-me is on my side. Yes it is.

So, I have a lot of time to kill. Just finished F.E.A.R.3. Great game. If I'm not playing games I'm cruising some of my favorite forums. http://www.ak47.net/index.html or http://www.calguns.net/ or http://www.weaponeer.net/ or http://forum.saiga-12.com/ are some of my favorites. I have a project in the works that should interest y'all. When I move it beyond the planning stage I'll start posting about it. The idea is called the guerrilla sniper rifle. It's an accurized AK. Not working I obviously don't have a lot of money to work with. So, it's work that can be done to a rifle to make it more accurate without a machine shop or a bunch of cash for a pile of parts. Rework, refit, and tighten things selectively to improve accuracy without compromising the inherent reliability of the AK platform.

It's something I've wanted to do for a long time. Long before the tv show Sons of Guns took a 7.62x51 Saiga rifle and did their "AK Sniper". The barrel they used... That barrel cost enough to buy a couple extra AK's. The donor rifle is a Saiga 7.62x39 with a 20" barrel (520mm). The ComBloc sniper platforms SVD, PSL, M76 all have long thin barrels. They can achieve pretty good accuracy, but they have design issues that prevent the greatest accuracy. They also fire much larger cartridges. 7.62x54r, 8mm Mauser, 9.3x64 and even the 7.62x51 NATO round. With High quality 7.62x39 commercial ammo I hope to see sub MOA out to at least 300 meters. With surplus ammo accuracy should be very close to MOA. My thought is that the 20" Russian barrel should be able to manage that... When you add the other changes I have planned.

The hardest part is going to be getting the cash to get a decent scope and mount. Cope's has a PSL 4x24 surplus for $110. I'd love to get my hands on a PSOP, but.... $$$$$$! That's also contrary to the plan of not throwing a pile of cash or new/fancy parts. If I can't achieve the accuracy I want with the original barrel I'll get a Green Mountain RPK barrel and use surplus RPK gas block and front sight block. That and get/fab a Galil style gas tube(eliminating the rear sight block) should all be available under $200. I have heard a lot of good stuff about the Green Mountain barrels, and they are a real steal for the quality. New chrome-moly barrel for just over $100. No, not chrome lined, but that'll be better for accuracy anyway. You want to talk about a steal? AK 7.62x39 barrel blank, listed on their website for $33!!!!! I don't have a lathe to turn my own, otherwise I'd probably start with a new, heavy barrel. I told ya, great value.

The one thing I am having trouble with is making up my mind about how to change the gas system. The simple solution is to take the stock gas piston and cut it off to make a strike face just off the nose of the bolt carrier. Then make a floating tappet to fill the space between the gas block and the bolt carrier where it comes thru the rear sight block. This would be the easiest. Hardest part would be to tighten up the fit of the gas tube to the rear sight block. That would allow the gas tube to be shortened so that it doesn't contact the gas block. The reason to eliminate contact between the tube and gas block is that the gas tube will heat faster than the barrel and push the barrel around as it heats/cools. This will, of course, change the point of impact, and, damage accuracy.

Another idea is to make a hybrid gas system. Run a small tube (think the gas tube of an AR15/M16) from the gas block to just ahead of the bolt carrier. Then the gas piston will be replaced by a cylinder (think AR180B) that will allow the new gas tube to go in the end of the gas cylinder. Gas impulse runs from the barrel, thru the gas block, thru the new smaller gas tube, out the end of the tube and into the cylinder. This will then push the cylinder, and cycle the bolt carrier. It would operate like the AR piston systems. The benefit of the small tube system is that as it heats and cools it won't be heavy enough to push the barrel around. It will also cool much faster than a larger tube. And heat is the enemy. Better cooling=better accuracy. Who'd a thunk it? Now the only problem with this design is getting the gas cylinder(which is attached to the bolt carrier, remember?) to re-align with the gas tube. That's why I think a gas cylinder/tappet would be a better choice. Small tube going into a gas cylinder which is also a floating tappet, which would then strike the end of the bolt carrier, cycling the action. With a spring loaded, floating tappet, the gas tube would never have to leave the gas cylinder. Just think a piston system like an AR... just a lot shorter. Either of these add complexity... which might affect reliability.

So decisions, decisions. I think the ideal for accuracy would be the floating gas cylinder-tappet. That would be the hardest to fab... Make a strike face to screw into the end of the bolt carrier. Get a piece of stainless steel round stock. Drill maybe 3" into the end of the round bar. Turn the outside with my drill press. Maybe some cooling fins on the cylinder end. Have to drill a few ports about 1/2"(10 to 12mm) from the inside end. Also have to have a spring face. Then a bushing pressed into a new gas tube for the tappet to ride in. Probably hard to imagine. When I get started there will be plenty of pics.

One other thing to do is to make a gas regulator. AKs are over gassed. Less gas, less recoil. Less recoil, more accuracy. So use surplus parts? M76, maybe FN-FAL? Or just make one. That's kinda where I'm leaning. Make something to press into the original gas block....

Alright. Nuff about that. Here's a little diversion...
In my netwide travels today I found this
http://forum.phun.org/showthread.php?t=529357
Bunch of cool horror stuff

Alright, which one of you fucknuts rearranged the furniture?

So.... you don't know me. Of course, it could be said that I don't know me either. So, if ya stick around, I'm sure that we'll both learn a lot.

So, this is all my buddies fault. I've got a FUCKED back. I've been trying to get social security (HAHAHAHA.... Security, right) for a hair over 3 years. I was given a scrip for some painkillers that actually help some. So according to them, I'm all better. Right. Anyway, so when I was talking to my buddy and he suggested I try my hand at writing. So if ya tell me this is all crap, I'll make sure to pass the blame along. I'm sure he'll appreciate it.

So, as I said, this will be a learning experience. It may not always make sense. If not, too fucking bad. Just kidding... I think. A lot of the stuff I write is probably going to be stream of consciousness. I will also likely talk about a whole lot of different things. If ya have a question about something I talk about, or want me to talk about a specific topic, drop a note. If I think it's interesting, I'll post something. I welcome comments, and am always up for a good discussion or argument.

In the coming posts I will talk a little about my past, my thoughts and ideals, likes and dislikes.... Whatever the hell I feel like talking about.

I'm going to wrap up tonight with a few things....
1st I am absolutely hooked on Comedy Central's series Ugly Americans. Thursday nights. Not everyone's cup of tea. But if you appreciate my humor, it might be worthwhile to check it out. Can't wait!!!
2nd DEXTER!!!! Coming soon!
3rd I just learned about (I guess I haven't followed the news enough or something) the untimely death of Peter Steele in April 2010 of heart failure. He was an amazingly under appreciated talent. He wrote music and lyrics, and played bass for Type O Negative. I learned of it while trying to find the track list for a soundtrack that was put together of Type O- songs played along with the silent film Nosferatu. If ya like dark music or Vampire flicks, it's worth checking out.

I have a lot of abandonment issues. Death is always a big thing with me.

RIP Peter Steele (January 4th, 1962 to April 14, 2010) You will be missed.